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Your guide to choosing the right R.M. Williams boots

Discover R.M. Williams' historic collection of Chelsea boots - classic boots that combine style, functionality and comfort. In this guide, we guide you through the choice of model, leather types, soles and aesthetic details to find the pair that meets your needs and personal style.
Text: Ebba Thanner
Your guide to choosing the right R.M. Williams boots
In the early 1930s, in the midst of the Great Depression, Reginald Murray Williams – known as R.M. Williams – camped in the rugged Gammon Ranges, part of the Flinders Ranges in South Australia. To support himself and his family, he took on odd jobs, including herding cattle and digging wells. His time in the mountains took a new direction when he met Dollar Mick, an itinerant saddler and cattle herder, Mich passed on his knowledge of leather crafstmanship, which was to be crucial to Williams' future.

With Mick as his mentor, Williams began manufacturing leather products that quickly attracted attention throughout South Australia. Through his own experiences as a cattle herder in the Australian outback, Williams realized what the market was missing – functional, durable and comfortable products that could withstand the harsh conditions. 

A single piece of leather – a timeless innovation

During the early years of R.M Williams' business, the idea for the unique construction that would become the hallmark of the entire brand was born. Williams noticed that traditional riding boots often couldn't handle the rigors of stirrups – the seams would come undone and the materials wouldn't hold up. The solution was a boot made from a single piece of leather, reinforced with a single seam at the back.

This design eventually became the brand's signature and set a new standard for quality and durability – a standard that still lives on today.

In this guide, we'll take a look at four of R.M. Williams' most popular models: The Craftsman, Comfort Craftsman, Comfort Turnout and The Gardener.

Let's dive into the world of R.M Williams and find your next pair of timeless boots. 

Things to consider when choosing R.M. Williams-boots

Size and fit
R.M Williams boots are normally true to size, and we recommend that you choose your usual size. However, keep in mind that fit can vary between different R.M Williams models. For example, a boot with a narrower silhouette may feel smaller than a model with a wider silhouette, even if they are the same size.     

Lasts
The last is the shape used in the manifacture of the boot and determines both fit and width. R.M. Williams uses several different last types to create models that suit different types of feet and needs.  

R.M Williams last types include:

F – narrow 
G – regular
H – wide 
X – extra wide

All R.M. Williams boots in our range are manifactured with last G, which means a standard width that offers a comfortable fit for most people.

The Leather
R.M. Williams takes great care in sourcing and selecting leather from around the world that meets their high standards of quality. Below we go over the different types of leather used for the four models and what makes each leather unique.  

Yearling leather
A versatile and fine-grained leather from cattle that are between one and two years old. The leather is thinner and softer, making it popular for high-quality products such as shoes. The leather is chrome-tanned, making it both supple and pliable.

Vesta leather
A water-repellent, hard-wearing leather that is designed to develop a beautiful patina and character the more you wear the boots. The leather is also called "pull-up leather" as the leather can sometimes take on a lighter shades when stretched or bent, which contributes to its unique appearance.   

Greasy Kip leather
A hard-wearing, chrome-tanned leather that is treated with oils during tanning to make the leather water-repellent.

Suede
Suede is made from the underside of animal skin and is charcterized by its suppleness and brushed matte finish.

Outsole
R.M. Williams offer two main types of outsoles for its boots: the classic leather sole and the versatile rubber sole. Leather soles are a timeless and elegant choice that give a sophisticated feel and are well suited to more formal occasions. Rubber soles focus on functionality and comfort. They offer effective shock absorption and a reliable grip, while being naturally water-repellent. Rubber soles can vary in thickness, pattern and treatment to meet different needs. Rough-patterned soles provide better grip and stability on uneven surfaces, while smoother variants are perfect for everyday use.

Shoe care for durability
To extend the life of your R.M. Williams boots – and any leather shoe for that matter – regular care is essential. Clean and condition them with shoe care products specifically formulated for leather and suede to preserve the look and properties of your boots.

Read more: How to best care for your leather boots

Compare the models

The Craftsman

Design and fit:
Leather: Yearling leather
Outsole: Stitched leather sole
Toe: Chisel toe – boxy toe design
Last: G – Regular
Size: The shoes are true to size, we recommend choosing your usual size.

The legendary The Craftsman silhouette from R.M Williams was introduced in 1966 with the ambition to offer the well-dressed man a boot that combined quality, elegance and the best of traditional boots worn by cattlemen. Almost 60 years later, the model lives on as a symbol of first-class craftsmanship and timeless design, and has in many ways changed Australian style forever.

From elegant salons to rugged landscapes, The Craftsman has become a versatile favourite, perfect fro everything from business meetings and frmal dinners to casual weekend adventures. Through technical innovations, the model has continously evolved to offer a higher level of comfort and functionality, without compromising its original design language.

Suitable for:
The Craftsman is the obvious choice for those seeking timeless elegance and versatility. Lightweight, stylish and uncompromising in design and function, The Craftsman is as relevant today as it was when it debuted in the 1960s.

Comfort Craftsman

Design and fit:
Leather: Available in Yearling leather, Vesta leather and suede.
Outsale: Ribbed rubber sole
Toe: Chisel toe – boxy toe design
Last: G - Regular
Size: The shoes are normal in size, we recommend that you choose your usual size.

As a modern interpretation of the iconic model The Craftsman, the Comfort Craftsman was launched with a focus on higher comfort without compromising on the original design. Just like the original, this model is characterized by the distinctive chisel toe design and the fine stitching that has become synonymous with R.M. Williams.

The big difference lies in the sole: The Comfort Craftsman is equipped with a shock-absorbing rubber sole and a softly cushioned insole for superior comfort during long days. The extra padding in the heel area further enhances the wearing comfort, making the model ideal for both everyday use and more demanding environments, when you have to be on your feet for a long time. 

Suitable for:
If you're looking for a pair of R.M Williams that combines historic design with superior comfort, the Comfort Craftsman is the obvious choice. With its shock-absorbing rubber sole and soft insole, this model offers an upgraded experience that's ideal for long days, walks and varied environments. The three different leather finishes also give you more choices in terms of style and colour – without compromising on quality. An investment in both style and comfort.

Comfort Turnout

Design and fit:
Leather: Yearling leather
Outsole: Ribbed rubber sole
Toe: Round toe – rounded toe design
Last: G - Regular
Size: The shoes are true to size, we recommend choosing your usual size.

Comfort Turnout is a model that reflects R.M Williams' roots and heritage from the Australian countryside. Originally designed to withstand long riding tours and the tough landscape of the Australian outback, this boot embodies a balance between strength, durability and high comfort. 

Also called "The Craftsman's timeless brother" by the brand itself, the Comfort Turnout shares the same high standards of craftsmanship and design moments. Just like the Comfort Craftsman, the Comfort Turnout is equipped with a shock-absorbing rubber sole and a soft insole.The big differencelies in the toe design: the Comfort Turnout has a rounded toe, unlike the more boxy toe design of The Craftsman and Comfort Craftsman that we mentioned above. The rounded toe design also has a history, as it is very similar to the durable silhouette of classic work shoes.

Suitable for:
Are you looking for a comfortable pair of boots that are ideal for long days and varied environments, but wondering whether to choose the Comfort Craftsman or the Comfort Turnout? The difference is in the aesthetics: the Comfort Turnout offers the same premium craftsmanship and comfort, but with a wider, rounded toe design that gives it a classic style. If you also appreciate the brand's heritage and are looking for boots in their classic Yearling leather, the Comfort Turnout is the boot for you.

The Gardener

Design and fit:
Leather: Greasy Kip leather
Outsole: Ribbed rubber sole with extra grip
Toe: Round toe – rounded toe design
Last: G - Regular
Size: Shoes are true to size, we recommend choosing your usual size.

The Gardener boot, introduced in the late 1950's, is a pair of robust and sturdy boots that have become a symbol of practical design. Originally developed to meet the challenges of Australia's agricultural landscape and mountainous regions, the boot was created to withstand mud, moisture and sand. 

For several decades, the boots were equipped with a thick, wax-impregnated sole that was attached with brass screws. However, in the 1990's, the design underwent a modernization and the sole was replaced with a ribbed construction, which contributed to easier repairs and extended the life of the boots. 

The Gardener is made from a single piece of 2.2 mm thick, oiled Greasy Kip leather, making the boot both durable and water.resistant. Its rounded toe and vulcanized rubber sole contribute to both comfort and function. The sole is also oil and acid resistant, making it a perfect choice for demanding environments.

Suitable for:
The Gardener is the boot for those looking for unmatched durability and reliability in demanding environments. With its robust greasy Kip leather, oil and acid resistant rubber sole and water repellent construction, it is designed to withstand hard work and harsh weather conditions.

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